Our second full week in Chicago (this visit)

Monday 13th November

The start of a new week in Chicago had us thinking about evening meals through the week and what we might need to add to our shopping list. A pork roast had been requested by Sarah and Max; that placed a walk over to Fulton Markets high on the list of priorities to get a nice piece of pork. The markets are a relatively short walk from our apartment, through suburbs that ring the CBD and are starting to become gentrified.

An extensive interstate train network weaves through these inner city suburbs. We have been enjoying “train spotting” from our 31st floor apartment as the rural and interstate passenger trains come and go during the morning peak period. Multiple lines head westward, while others weave their way in a north-westerly direction. Diesel engines billow smoke as they pull away from the main terminus and head towards the horizon, hauling 7 to 9 passenger carriages. The noise of them coming and going can be heard / felt in our apartment. We can only imagine what it must be like for the people in the apartments that adjoin the rail network.

At Publican Meats a nice piece of roasting pork was sourced, scored and wrapped up for us before we crossed the Fulton Market Road to enjoy another coffee at Beatrix Café – which seems to be a magnet for the 30-something tech industry employees who work and live in this area. Chris headed back to the apartment to place the pork in the fridge while Wendy & Yvonne walked through the CBD to Macy’s. The plan was to all meet up there for lunch.

The mild weather made for comfortable strolling around town and Chris took his time, snapping the odd photo here and there along the way. A blue sunny sky made it all the better for taking photos. A rendezvous was coordinated and we all met up for lunch on the food court level – sparsely populated for what we thought would be a busy lunchtime. Clearly Covid has had a lasting impression on the patronage such places are receiving.

Macy’s is a USA institution, with their expansive stores selling a wide variety of goods. The store in the Chicago CBD is no exception as it occupies an entire city block with 6 floors of things for sale topped by the food court on the 7th floor. The store already has its Christmas / Holiday bunting on display. It seems that attention turns to the “holiday” period immediately following Halloween.

Since arriving in Chicago we have witnessed council workers moving their way through the many garden beds that line the city streets – removing spent flowers and plants and replacing them with a groundcover of pine tree fronds into which holiday-themed bunting is assembled. The trees that have nearly completed dropping their colourful autumn leaves are all getting a light prune, and festive LED lights are being twisted around their branches. The unveiling of Christmas trees around the CBD is scheduled to commence this coming weekend.

The daylight hours have been getting shorter and shorter, with the sun now setting in the south-west at around 4:30pm. As a result, the light begins fading from about 3:30pm. The temperatures drop quickly once the warming influence of the sun fades. We headed back to our apartment at the first sign of the afternoon sun waning. Chris detoured via the Apple Store located beside the Chicago River, just off Michigan Avenue.

Tuesday 14th November

Sarah had advised us that the CTA (Chicago Transit Authority) was selling a variety of branded promotional products at 20% off. They often have interesting / quirky items available and it was worth a look in case we stumbled across a possible gift for someone. The CTA offices near Fulton Markets were hosting the sale in their foyer and people were already rummaging through the items available for sale when we arrived. They only had limited items remaining and none really resonated with us – we left empty-handed.

Tonight was the night for the big roast pork cook-up and a few ingredients were needed to complete the spread that was being planned. When walking from our apartment towards Michigan Avenue, we normally pass under a branch of the “EL” (elevated railway) that supports the local suburban trains above the roadway below. The EL in various locations around the city has featured in many movies and TV programs over the years. Typically, car chases take place in and around the EL pylons that support the rusting steel structure – which in turn supports the overhead rail traffic. Today we decided to follow the EL north to a shop Sarah put us onto a number of years ago – Paper Source. Apart from stocking all things paper (wrapping paper, cards and envelopes, writing paper, etc), the store also carries an interesting range of eclectic gifts. A thorough exploration of the items on display was warranted.

We then moved on to Whole Foods supermarket, eventually leaving with all things needed for the roast pork dinner that had been requested a few days ago. The remainder of the afternoon was spent preparing vegies and the pork belly for the evening meal. The meal was well received and there was little to pack away as leftovers.

Wednesday 15th November

There was a cooking focus to today. Chris prepared and baked a loaf of sourdough bread for us to have as toast with breakfast. Wendy whipped up a lemon slice to share with members of Sarah’s book club who were meeting nearby tonight. Dinner was less of a concern, as Book Club typically includes a variety of nibbles that are a sufficient alternative to an evening meal. Max ordered Japanese “take out” that was more than enough for him and Chris, who remained behind and avoided the book club chatter.

The ‘to do’ list of chores taking pride of place on the chalkboard under the breakfast bar in Sarah and Max’s apartment has had a further task crossed off. Max was wanting a replacement fan installed in his NAS (network server, where photos, videos, work-related files etc are stored). This chore was successfully undertaken and the NAS is back up and running successfully again.

Thursday 16th November

Over breakfast it was decided that the weather was conducive to a walk down to the Art Institute of Chicago, from where the famous Route 66 (“from Chicago to LA” as the song goes) commences its journey westward. The Art Institute is another massive building that has been further expanded over the years. It is probably impossible to see everything that is on display in a day and multiple visits would be necessary to complete such an undertaking.

There was a Picasso exhibition running for a short period of time that we couldn’t pass up. The number of people allowed into the exhibit was controlled so everyone could browse the works of Picasso. Wendy received confirmation that it was our time to view the exhibit via text and fortunately we weren’t too far away. Picasso was a prolific artist, especially once he had financial security. A near-complete sketch of “Weeping Woman” (that features in the National Gallery in Melbourne) was immediately recognisable. His skill with various techniques and media was also on display.

Once finished in the Picasso exhibit we found our way across to the café area were we sat down to enjoy a coffee each. The coffees were small but tasty – as Wendy pointed out, they should be fantastic as they cost the equivalent of AUD$14 each!

Our time at the Art Institute concluded with a walk through the lower level’s Eqyptian exhibit, including two heavily decorated sarcophagi. The intricate work and attention to detail that went into the items produced to help those who had departed on their journey to the afterlife was impressive. Apparently some of the ancient pieces on display were previously housed at the Chicago University and on display alongside a radiator – no flash climate controls back in the 1920s!

Our exploration of the Art Institute then continued as we wandered through the modern European exhibit, with all the notable impressionists represented..

The Art Institute building is so large it occupies an entire city block, with multiple entry / exit points. We made our way to the north-facing exit that looked into Millenium Park, framed by the high-rise buildings in the background. One interesting garden that was well advanced in terms of its seasonal change was the Lurie Garden. According to the entrance plaque “Throughout the year, and for every season, native perennials and bulbs give the garden great diversity, creating a haven for wildlife, birds, and insects”. The majority of plants had gone to seed in preparation for the winter ahead. The scent of local herbs were detected as a gentle but cool breeze helped disperse the seeds throughout the garden.

Cloud Gate (otherwise known as “The Bean”) was fenced off, as work was underway to repave the area surrounding this iconic sculpture. Passersby were taking advantage of a few chairs that helped provide a glimpse of The Bean while work continued around its perimeter. The ice rink in front of The Bean (almost bordering Michigan Avenue) was in place and ready to take its first customers. The ice had been set while autumn leaves were still dropping from the surrounding gardens, with many leaves trapped in the frozen ice. It won’t be long before the ice will stay frozen throughout the days ahead due to the forecast ambient temperature.

On our way back to the apartment we popped in to the lobby of the Carbide & Carbon building, an iconic Art Deco landmark built in 1929 and now a luxury hotel. We admired the black marble and gold trim – apparently the building was designed to look like a champagne bottle!

Lengthy conversations took place over dinner – Courtney, a long term friend of Sarah and Max and the girls, joined us and, with the lovely bottles of red wine she brought along, there was never a dull moment.

Friday 17th November

Sarah had placed a request for a loaf of sourdough yesterday (and we were also running low) so Chris headed off early to get 2 loaves started – with the plan being to cook them both later in the day. The conditions inside Sarah and Max’s apartment are ideal for rising bread, as it seems to be around 23C with a 35% humidity rate (maintained by the humidifier that is constantly working to deal with the dry air that is common over Chicago). The time between bread preparation and rising was used to read up on what needed to be done to upgrade the network in their apartment – something Max had asked for assistance with prior to us heading over to the USA.

Wendy and Yvonne had a few chores to attend to, which included replenishing dwindling breakfast supplies in our apartment. They were also tasked with picking up Wendy’s (birthday) ice cream cake. Fortunately the birthday cake pickup wasn’t far away, and with the morning temperature was struggling to get above 6C the birthday cake made it home intact, ready for the celebrations early next week.

Saturday 18th November

The replacement and configuration of network components in Sarah and Max’s apartment was one of two priorities today. The second (but possibly more pressing) priority was to identify why their TV had suddenly stopped working late on Wednesday night. With network component boxes unpacked and a plan of attack agreed, work commenced. Existing devices were shut down and disconnected from the network. Replacement devices were installed one-by-one, configured and confirmed to be working before the next piece of the puzzle was connected.

While devices were being configured Chris was untangling the wires that filled the audio visual cabinet where the non-functioning TV cables may have resided. Cables were tagged and disconnected from devices in the hope that they could be reconnected to the same devices when the problem had been rectified. Dust was vacuumed up, small toys that had been lost for ages saw the light of day again, and the tangle of wires was partially untangled – all to no avail.

While the work proceeded in the apartment, Sarah, Ana, Leah, Wendy and Yvonne walked up to Whole Foods to buy ingredients for a fish and chip night. While much cooler, the day was sunny and still – with suitable clothing it was pleasant enough strolling the streets on this late autumn day. More ingredients than seemed necessary for the evening meal returned home to the apartment.

Max has been following a website that tracks the International Space Station as it orbits the earth. The website publishes the orbit path and gives specific times when the station will be visible in the sky. Coordinates for where the space station will pass overhead are given.

Tonight, the International Space Station was scheduled to rise above the WSW horizon at 6:11pm and be visible in the sky overhead for 5 minutes before disappearing from view in the NNE direction. Given this flight path is largely visible from our apartment (and the 31st floor offers a great vantage point), Max, Ana, Leah and Chris put on warm jackets and headed to our apartment about 10 minutes prior to the scheduled appearance. The clear skies should have made spotting the space station relatively easy, but the light pollution – especially towards the horizon – made it difficult to sight until it was high in the sky. Its flight part was close to the main Chicago airport (O’Hare) and it was easy to be fooled by the many aircraft taking off and landing. We eventually confirmed the sighting and watched as the space station quickly passed overhead. We can also confirm that there was no sign of the missing tool box that was accidentally left behind after a recent space walk to attend to routine repairs. With our viewing mission accomplished, we returned to Sarah and Max’s apartment for dinner.

The halibut that Sarah had selected for dinner was excellent eating. Halibut is not a fish that is commonly available in the southern hemisphere (though it might be sold under a different name, as is often the case). Tomorrow is ‘ladder day’ as Sarah has 3 chores that all involve the use of a ladder to replace, fix or retrieve things from otherwise unreadable heights.

Sunday 19th November

We woke to another clear, sunny morning with the outside temperature hovering around 6C. After a slow-paced start to the day, with breakfast spent people-watching from the 31st floor vantage point of our apartment, Wendy and Chris ventured out for a brisk walk along the Chicago River Walk. When we first started visiting Chicago this walk didn’t exist; over time the locals have rediscovered the river that winds through the centre of the CBD dividing Southside and Northside into distinct areas. The walk was developed from where the river divides into two arms (one headed north west and the other to the south) and extends all the way through the shores of Lake Michigan where it connects with the Lakeside network of paths that follow the shoreline to the north and south.

Our apartment is located at the blue dot on the map
Our apartment is located at the blue dot on the map above

The River Walk can be entered via stairs or a ramp quite close by; once down beside the river it is an uninterrupted walk to the lake. No more streets to cross, nor traffic to get in the way of our progress. The joggers were out in numbers with their on-trend jogging gear including headbands, ear buds, gloves, and branded clothing and runners. Like ourselves, the walkers were rugged up in down jackets with many sporting beanies to keep their heads warm.

The Chicago River was still busy with commercial traffic – mainly river cruise boats that take passengers on an architectural tour of the city, with guides pointing our places of interest and discussing the history behind the development of the city – from its humble trading port origins through to today as a gateway for the movement of produce and a centre of business.

As we approached Lake Michigan the breeze picked up a little, giving the air a cutting edge that made us grateful for dressing appropriately for the conditions. We followed the footbridge over the Chicago River and down to the lakeside walk before turning westward and returning to our apartment through the centre of the CBD. A quick stop at Binny’s (the Dan Murphy equivalent in these parts) had us searching through the extensive selection of wines for something that might be suitable to accompany the evening meal.

By the time we returned to our apartment the temperature had risen slightly and we were both feeling warm, having exercised in down jackets for the past hour or so. Layers of clothing were discarded once inside where the air conditioning is set to 18.5C – much more acceptable that the 8C (feels like 6C) temperature outside.

Later in the day we made our way over the Sarah and Max’s apartment before their guests arrived for afternoon drinks and and evening meal. Max was still trying to iron out an issue with their TV; eventually he and Chris managed to get things sorted. The apartment was filled with the smell of chilli con carne slowly cooking on the stove in a large cast iron casserole dish. A warming smell on a coolish day.

Aroma, Andrew (Bud) and their children Gabriel and Maha arrived soon after. Following our initial greetings the children starting filling the available floor space with toys while the adults gathered around the kitchen island bench to chat, enjoy a drink, continue with the evening meal preparation, or just supervise proceedings. Bud had an interesting upbringing, being 1 of 12 siblings brought up in a small rural town in Illinois roughly a day’s drive southwest of Chicago. Spending time in Florence, Italy, whilst studying at college was a real eye-opener for him – until then, food had been very bland (understandable with so many mouths to feed). Clearly the budget couldn’t extend to anything that wasn’t going to fill up a growing family so things such as potatoes and cornbread were staples.

Aroma spoke of the challenges she and Bud faced when deciding to marry. A mixed marriage that included Christian and Muslim beliefs was too much for some members of their family, though less of an issue for friends. Two wedding ceremonies were conducted in an attempt to appease the the concerns of some, but there was still a sense of relief when the contentious marriage ceremonies were behind them.

Both Bud and Aroma spoke at length about their time in Australia when they travelled to Noosa Heads for Sarah and Max’s wedding. Bud has very fond memories of waking each morning and going for an early morning swim in the warm, clear waters of the main beach at Noosa to start his day. They also found their time on K’Gari (Fraser Island) surreal. They thought it was more like a Disney set for a movie with lush rainforest reaching skywards from the sand dunes that make the island a very unique place.

The slow cooked chilli con carne was devoured in far less time than it took to prepare. The wines flowed along with the conversation until Bud brought out his guitar and proceeded to entertain us with three songs before it was time to tidy up the apartment and for the guests to depart. It didn’t feel as cool as it had earlier in the day but maybe that was due to the warming effect of the chilli consumed earlier.

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