We were woken by the sound of travellers packing up and hitting the road this morning. The fact that it was 3C provided little incentive for us to crawl out from under the doona and brave the conditions. Eventually we were both up, rugged up for the crisp conditions but also enjoying clear blue skies after a number of overcast days getting here.
Following breakfast, we walked the 5 kilometres into town, taking a path that hugged the edge of the mighty Todd River that bisects Alice Springs and (like everything else) passes through the Gap on its way south west. The Todd rarely flows; it is normally no more than a ribbon of sand dotted with gum trees that reach deep into the sand seeking water below the surface. Recent rains had the Todd flowing for a day or two before the water disappeared underground leaving only puddles behind.
We left the Todd and headed for the Information Centre to check on the latest track conditions between Alice Springs and Halls Creek (across the Tanami Track). All seems good at this stage; the track is open all the way with the normal disclaimers about driving to the conditions and being cautious about possible washouts and muddy patches. We spoke with another couple who are heading that way tomorrow and they confirmed what we had heard. We did mention to them that should they get stuck, we would only be a day behind them with all our recovery gear to help out.
We found a trendy looking café in an arcade off the Todd Street Mall and settled down to test their coffee-making skills. Being coffee snobs from Melbourne, the bar is set quite high when it comes to a good coffee. We are happy to report that “Page 27” (the name of the café) could hold its own anywhere in Melbourne. One thing that caught our eye was the quirky furniture, including a washing machine repurposed as a high table to sit at.
In our walk to and from town we noticed that the many indigenous people we passed rarely made eye contact, while it was commonplace for the non-indigenous to make eye contact and often say “hello”, “good morning” or “g’day”. We could only speculate on why this might be the case. Hopefully our very small sample of indigenous behaviours wasn’t symptomatic of something sinister like a two-class system or entrenched racism.
Our next stop was the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens on the outskirts of town. We were drawn there for two reasons – a walk through the indigenous gardens to a lookout with views over the town and mountain ranges to the south and west, and also because the café came highly recommended. We have to say that the recommendation was on the money and lunch was enjoyed in a pleasant, arid-region garden setting. The walk that followed lunch took us to the top of a very rocky outcrop that provided us with unimpeded views of Alice Springs and the West MacDonnell ranges as they faded into deep red and purple hues towards the horizon. The gardens were initially founded as a flora reserve in 1956, after lobbying by Miss Olive Muriel Pink, one of Alice Springs’ most colourful characters. She was an anthropologist, an advocate for Aboriginal rights, a botanical artist and a promoter of native plants who worked and lived in tough conditions while founding the gardens and establishing early plantings.
Next stop was the supermarket to stock up on things we either forgot to pack before leaving Melbourne or needed to top up after a few days on the road. Lettuce (we have left a gardenful of lettuce behind us in Melbourne), dishwashing detergent, a few fresh herbs and a roast chicken were on the list. The roast chicken and fresh herbs featured in a delicious Thai chicken salad for dinner.
We noted that unlike Melbourne, where replacement razor blades are occasionally locked away as protection from shoplifters, in Alice Springs the aerosol deodorants and alcohol-based mouthwash products were secured behind locked glass cabinets. They apparently face different challenges out here.
A quick stop off at Repco for two replacement bulbs for a side light on the Tvan and a ratchet strap to help secure our second spare wheel on the drawbar followed. The remainder of the afternoon was spent unpacking, enjoying the warm rays from the afternoon sun, fixing blown bulbs on the Tvan and securing spare wheels for the Tanami crossing.
As is often the case, a couple who also own a Tvan stopped for a chat. They were from Mildura and headed for Kununurra in the Kimberley region. They, like us, would be heading across the Tanami – but they were leaving a day ahead of us. They checked out how we had our Tvan set up and packed for an extended time away and were amazed at how ordered everything seemed. Maybe we have just learned what works for us and having things organised is part of that.
After dinner we spoke to family back in Melbourne who are making the most of the winter conditions while we prepare for warmer days ahead.
We reflected on our day in Alice Springs and decided the town is a bit like a goanna. On cold winters’ mornings it needs the warmth of the sun to get it moving and things don’t really start happening around town until about 11.00am.