The day started with the intention of heading over to the Bardi community at One Arm Point about 18 kms away from our campsite at Kooljaman Resort. We eventually got there but after a sleep in and a detour.
Our meal last night at the resort restaurant (our first dining-out experience of the trip) possibly slowed us down a little this morning, in part due to the late night and in part due to the more than ample servings we struggled through – grilled barramundi for Wendy and slow cooked WA lamb shank for Chris. The restaurant was busy and as a result service was at a more relaxed pace, but it wasn’t like we had anything else to do, so a pleasant night was had by both of us. Interestingly, being on aboriginal lands, no alcohol is served although patrons are free to bring their own if they wish.
After breakfast we got into the Prado for the first time in what seemed like ages (ie. 2 days) and drove the dusty track back the 5 kms to the sealed road that would take us to One Arm Point. As it happens, we spotted the turnoff to the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm and were soon readjusting our itinerary for the day. At the end of another bumpy, dusty track we popped out into a bustling scene of activity. Tradespeople were going about their business, a bobcat lifted a gardener up in its bucket so he could prune a short coconut palm of dead leaves and old coconuts, and various staff were going about their chores.
We were greeted at reception where we made enquiries about the tours for the day and the chance of getting a coffee. Due to the tides, no water-based tours were planned until later in the afternoon, but we were signed up for a land-based tour that has turned us into pearl farming experts. A coffee from the soon-to-be-opened bistro helped fill in the time before the tour commenced.
On the tour we learnt many things about the family-run business; it’s history, the science behind pearl farming and how pearls are graded by shape, lustre, colour and size. We got to handle outrageously expensive pearl necklaces and individual pearls (none of which found a place in our return luggage). We did manage to pick up some interesting pearl shells mounted in a pearl farming frame – we just have to get it safely home to Melbourne.
With half the day gone, we continued our journey to One Arm Point – way behind our initial plans for the day; not that we were bothered about it. As with the other communities on the Dampier Peninsula, visitors are requested to report in to the Administration Office and pay a nominal fee for entering the community. After the formalities, and armed with a map of town and the local sights, we started exploring. First stop was a visit to the community store, which was amazingly well stocked. We departed with a T-shirt and a cool drink and headed to the end of the airstrip to take in the views across a fast flowing channel to some low lying islands just off shore. Clearly a fishing paradise with clear, deep and fast flowing currents that looked ideal for a decent catch.
Our journey around town had us commenting more generally on how well the communities on the Dampier Peninsula appear to be managing their affairs and taking pride in the place in which they live. Hopefully this is a continuing trend as we move through the Kimberley region. The school newsletter was posted on the bulletin board outside the community store with news of a pending visit by Year 6/7 students to Melbourne – to get some exposure to city life before they head off to boarding school for their final years of high school. They will be hosted by Trinity School, and billeted by the families of students enrolled at that school. Melbourne and the cooler weather conditions seem a long way removed from the situation here!
We returned to camp for a late lunch before heading over the hill and past the lighthouse for our final swim in the Indian Ocean here before setting off inland along the Gibb River Road via Derby tomorrow. We will see the ocean again, but the next time it will be safe to consider another swim will probably be just north of the township of 1770 in over a month’s time. Looks like we are setting up for another great sunset.
Our neighbour has dropped off a fresh fish caught on a fishing charter this afternoon – we will have to reacquaint ourselves with fish cleaning techniques so we can have it as part of our dinner tonight.