First light was before 4:30am. The initial rays of the new day were sillouetting the swaying gum trees outside the floor to ceiling window in our bedroom when Chris woke. Gusts of strong wind swayed and twisted the trees as the day dawned.
The winds had managed to shift some of the rain clouds and we could finally see across the water west towards Port Arthur and south towards Cape Raoul. Breakfast at the big table was generous, with a choice of mostly healthy breakfast cereals, toast, juice, tea, coffee, fruit and yogurt. Freshly baked fruit bun was sliced and toasted as was a loaf of multigrain bread. Our lunches had been prepared and scroggin (trail mix) was available to refill containers provided.
Walking started at 9:15am. At first it was a steady climb, through twisted banksia and tea tree to the first of three lookouts for the day with views along the towering dolerite cliffs that dominate the coastline on the Tasman Peninsula.
The walk progressed (seemingly forever upwards) to the top of Arthur’s Peak. Views up and down the coast gave us a birds-eye-view of the cliffs and coastline below. A geology lesson followed, where the origins of the ever-present dolerite were explained. It is predominantly found in Tasmania, South Africa and Antartica, with its origins traced back to Jurassic times.
A gradual descent followed and sea fog closed in temporarily as we approached the east coast. The air was thick with humidity as the fog swirled around. A stop was warranted to peel off a few layers of clothing before continuing on our way.
The track was busy with a number of walkers out enjoying the conditions. There were family groups, international visitors and one school group on the track, with some heading in the same direction as our group and others joining from a track that has its origins at Fortesque Bay. We will end up there in a couple of days.
Large sections of newly installed boardwalk made the going easy across open, marshy buttongrass plains. Wildflowers were in abundance, as well as a foraging echidna who seem unconcerned at our presence.
We moved back into dense forest and began an undulating walk until we reached a clearing with seating around a central table. Lunch time! A story about the recent history of the region followed while lunch was enjoyed.
The region was explored by bushwalkers back in the 1960s before tracks existed. The first to walk into the region struggled to penetrate the thick tangled tea tree bush; it took them multiple attempts to make their way overland to Cape Pillar. Their efforts generated interest in the region and resulted in the establishment of the Tasman NP in the late 1990s.
The final leg of the walk for today took us part way along the Cape Pillar track that we will follow to its end tomorrow. The sea fog rolled in again and we were shrouded in swirling clouds of damp, white, warm humidity. The group gathered on an observation deck that normally offers up grand views of Cape Huay to the north-east. Today was not one of those days. The observation deck was also the start of the brand new Munro Lodge, built by Tasmanian National Parks for independent walkers. The lodge looks to be well designed, offering great facilities for hikers.
Our accommodation for the next two nights is a mirror image of the lodge we stayed in last night. It sits perched atop cliffs overlooking the Tasman Sea – although views are currently obscured by clouds and sea fog. Many in our walking group have signed up for a massage / relaxation treatment; others are foregoing the walk to Cape Pillar tomorrow and opting for a massage instead.
Happy hour is approaching and fellow walkers are making their way into the main kitchen, dining and lounge area to relax, talk about today’s walk and speculate on what might await us tomorrow.