After our unplanned visit to Burketown – and plenty of positive news regarding Max and the progress he is making – with batteries recharged, supplies topped up, water tanks filled and more diesel in the tanks, we turned the convoy westwards towards the Northern Territory border.
Leaving Burketown behind hopefully meant leaving behind the morning dust storms and afternoon heat. It also meant leaving behind reliable mobile phone and internet access for a few days. A final chat to Sarah in the USA to check on Max and the progress he is making was all we could manage, other than confirming with Sarah that she herself is managing OK, before we hit the road.
Burketown is pretty much the end of the line, so to speak. This is a region of Australia that has signs reminding you the next fuel is at least 200 kilometres away in any direction. Points of reference on our maps become intersections that lead to cattle stations.
We were quickly outside Burketown – as denoted by passing over the cattle grid that keeps the cattle out of town. Soon after, the sealed road turned to reasonable gravel. It might just be me but the road conditions fell away quickly when we entered the Doomadgee Aboriginal Lands and improved dramatically when we departed. It was also clear where the dry community boundaries extend. The boundary was marked with a commemorative wall of XXXX Gold beer cans! It’s hard to see how declaring a community “dry” is having any real impact.
The road leading into Hell’s Gate roadhouse could possibly have inspired the name given to the roadhouse! The manager was very nice and up for a chat. She also passed on some information regarding the road conditions ahead and places where we might find a nice camping area for the night.
We soon made it into the Northern Territory for the first time in our lives (Wendy & myself – Glen has been here for work previously) and stopped to take a photo to confirm our accomplishment. A few river crossings later and we were at the Calvert River, where good camping well above the river was found. This is salt water croc country and the signs never let you forget it, so best to avoid camping right on the water’s edge.
Camp oven cookup tonight – leg of lamb and roast vegies with peas and maybe even some gravy (if Glen doesn’t throw this lot out before we get to try it)! Will enjoy eating it around the camp fire under a sky full of stars.
We’re finding more and more time to explore all sorts of topics whilst on our adventure. We have discussed at length what we would do differently on our next extended trip away (possibly a topic for a separate blog entry), visa extension program for backpackers, why mobile phone coverage kicks in when you least expect it, what the flying insects that live in long drop toilets consider to be a tasty meal, where north is, and what day of the week it is. The list of topics goes on and on, but one that caught our attention was raised by Wendy last night – it is called the “what are you looking forward to in Darwin?” list. (We are forsaking the camper trailers for an inner city apartment whilst there).
Wendy is looking forward to a manicure & pedicure after weeks of collecting fire wood, setting up and packing up camp, etc. She’s also looking forward to a hot bath she can soak in. A copy of a Saturday Age newspaper and the time to read it from cover to cover also scored highly. A big bowl of fresh fruit salad with at least 10 different fruits was also mentioned, along with not having to prepare as though off on an extended hike just to go to the toilet in the middle of the night.
Glen is looking forward to a haircut and a cold toilet seat (ie. one that hasn’t just been used by someone else – and I’m not going to try and explain that one any further). He’s also looking forward to 2 ply (or greater) toilet paper, and buying a slab of beer for the price he’s been paying for a 6 pack! Finally for Glen, being able to open the fridge door more than once a day without the food spoiling, and having a shower without needing to wear thongs.
I’m looking forward to having a haircut and maybe even a shave. A good cafe latte would also be a treat. A Dan Murphy’s (or similar) liquor outlet would be patronised – the wine ran out last night! It would also be nice if I could stay clean for more than 10 minutes – everything we touch is dry and dusty.
Hopefully most of these desires are fulfilled but I am equally sure we will be keen to get back on the road and into the more remote places again when some of the items get ticked off in Darwin.