It interesting that when you take away the distractions of modern life it is very easy to get back in sync with the simple things. Pender Bay offers very limited internet and mobile phone coverage, no mains power, no radio reception (except very scratchy and intermittent ABC coverage and the occasional scratchy Indonesian talkback program at night, interspersed with lots of giggles and laughter). We are aware of when the sun rises and sets, when low and high tides will be, when the moon rises and when the ever present bush flies go to bed!
Last night at 6.39pm we watched a burnt orange moon rise slowly in east over the Dampier Peninsula, then again this morning we watched the sunrise cut through the deep indigo sky with a similar reddish-orange before rising above the eastern horizon. Both were defining moments and a substitute for the lack of TV and radio coverage we have been getting used to.
Last night was again cold by local standards – another 15C minimum according to our thermometer. It made it pleasant for sleeping and we took full advantage of this, returning to bed after watching the sunrise and staying there until about 8.30am.
Following breakfast we headed to the beach, first walking to the western end of Pender Bay, stopping frequently to check a partially submerged shell or coral. A pod of dolphins caught our attention, firstly about 50 metres off shore, then about 10 metres as they pursued a school of fish into the shallows. The beach was scattered with all nature of shells, corals, sponges, flotsam, etc. Our path around the point was blocked by large rocks that had us turn back and stop at a sheltered beach where (possibly contrary to local advice) we went for a refreshing swim. Nothing too adventurous – just enough to cool off as the day warmed up. For those wondering, the water was crystal clear and we felt comfortable we could see anything if it decided to approach us…
We continued our walk as the tide was coming in. With such large tides (around 9 metres), it is possible to watch the sea race in, quickly covering what had previously been well above the water level. We continued our walk to the eastern end of the beach, cutting it short when it looked like the incoming tide might cut off our return path. Two osprey caught our attention, gliding in the up-draughts above the ochre cliffs that fringe the bay. Other birds came and went as if in sync with the tides. Darters were present when the tide was in, but left as the tide started running out. Oystercatchers appeared when the tide was out and great expanses of sand flats were exposed.
The afternoon has been one of leisure – book reading, wave watching, a siesta (for some). The local birds have visited our camp site with some (like the crows) eager for a chat while others hovered over an ants’ nest, picking off the rather large ants as they made an appearance.
Another day is drawing to a close and we will enjoy the routine of watching another sun set before the moon again rises that little bit later in the evening tonight.