It was a slightly earlier start for us today as we had to cover 410 kms as well as fitting in a few chores in the town of Katherine. The first departure from the Bitter Springs caravan park (that we noticed) was just after 7.30am; we pulled out of there at around 8.00am.
When we were not far north of Bitter Springs a pilot vehicle with multiple flashing lights approached, heading south. Hand signals from the driver made it clear we should give whatever was coming our way a wide berth. A short time later two massive parts for mining trucks approached – each occupying most of the two lanes available. Wendy noted that there seemed to be little in the way of chains or other strapping holding them onto their respective semi-trailers.
Katherine is 107 kms north of Bitter Springs and (we think) the fourth biggest town in the Northern Territory. We have been to the town on numerous occasions so have a good idea of where to head to get our list of chores completed. First up we went to a well-stocked caravan, camping, fishing and hunting store where we were sure we could get a near-empty gas bottle for the Tvan refilled. We also bought a spare Anderson plug (to replace the other spare that was used earlier in this trip away). Following this we refuelled the Prado – and took on an additional 30 litres in jerry cans, in case we needed some extra for the Cobourg Peninsula visit where fuel will be unavailable. The Visitor Information Centre provided some useful travel tips and the coffee caravan outside provided decent lattes so was subsequently well patronised. Finally it was time to restock supplies at the supermarket opposite the Info Centre. The supermarket in Katherine is large and typically well stocked, being on the Stuart Highway. Fresh bread was also bought at the bakery.
While guiding our purchases (still secure in their shopping trolley) towards our car and van, Wendy was approached by a young indigenous man who offered to return the trolley to the supermarket, in return for the gold coin we had initially required to unlock it. He was happy to wait while we loaded our purchases into the fridge in the Tvan and the back seat of the Prado. We surrendered the empty trolley and wished one another a good day. When last we saw him he was pushing two empty trolleys back towards the supermarket.
We rejoined the Stuart Highway and continued north, crossing the Katherine River downstream of Katherine Gorge. Further up the highway we passed the turn-off to East Arnhem Land and Nhulunbuy. We agreed that this might be somewhere we visit in the future.
The Kakadu Highway turn-off to the right signalled that Kakadu National Park was almost within reach. Smoke filled the sky off to the north; it was the first sighting of controlled burns that are used as a form of land management in the region. Typically after the wet season such burns are conducted to control weeds and remove mounting fuel loads; they also encourage new growth and are in fact needed by some plants to help seeds germinate. With the Prado displaying an outside temperature of 33C it possibly wasn’t the best time to be using this management technique, but what do we know? One thing to be cautious about when approaching such planned fires is the wildlife that may run ahead of the fire and smoke. Whistling kites often follow the fire front, looking for an expeditious snack that may be trying to outrun the flames. The trouble is that the raptors will pursue a potential meal right into the path of oncoming traffic. Fortunately everyone today was well behaved and no disasters occurred.
One final chore for the day needed to be completed at the Kakadu Information Centre. Our permit to enter Kakadu was initially for a seven day stay, but we needed this extended to that we could re-enter the national park on our return from the Cobourg Peninsula. The young indigenous man who helped extend our park pass spoke softly and thoughtfully – English would possibly not have been his first language. He explained that he was originally from the Cobourg Peninsula, but from the now “not so good” side which had been hit by a cyclone earlier in the year – damage to the trees meant little shade from the sun during the heat of the day there.
We finished the day with cool drinks around the pool after setting up camp and securing all grocery purchases away in the Tvan.