The briefing last night after dinner advised that we had a long day of walking ahead of us, to make our way around to Fortescue Bay and the end of the Three Capes walk. As a result, an early start was necessary – with breakfast being served from 6:15am and a scheduled departure at 7:00am.
Issues with the hi-tech systems at the eco-lodge had meant there had been no hot water last night and this morning. We learnt that a plumber would be flown in on a helicopter later in the day to deal with the problem.
We set off back down the steep track (with 13 switchbacks) that connects the lodge to the main track – to Cape Pillar to the south and Cape Huay to the north. The weather was far more accommodating with practically no wind, no rain and patchy blue skies overhead. We set off with warm jackets over tee-shirts to keep out the morning chill, but quickly warmed up.
First stop for the day was at Retakunna Hut, overnight accommodation for independent travellers walking the Three Capes. The facilities are quite a step up from the simple huts we have seen elsewhere and they were well patronised.
A gradual ascent followed through temperate rainforest as we began to climb Mt Fortescue (482 metres). This gradual climb gave way to seemingly endless stairs (a theme that would be repeated later in the day). The lush rainforest hosted numerous mosses, ferns, fungi and lichens under a canopy of tall hardwood trees.
We stopped for lunch at a vantage point high atop the dolerite cliffs that define the coastline in these parts. The sheer cliffs dropped away 278 metres to the sea below.
Over lunch it was announced that the optional walk to the end of Cape Huay included 1,000 rock steps to get out, then a return along the same 1,000 steps to get back to the main track. A two-hour round trip. The murmurs and mutterings amongst our fellow walkers grew louder at that announcement!
The walk left the dolerite cliffs and headed inland following a ridgeline through drier banksia and flowering tea tree scrub. The junction with the Cape Huay track was soon upon us. 8 of us chose to to take on the stairs in order to check out Cape Huay, while 5 others declined and continued on to our final destination at Fortescue Bay.
Fortunately we could leave our backpacks and tackle the 2 hour return walk without the burden of a few extra kilograms. There was a new found spring in our steps as were started off – that was quickly slowed by the first of many lengthy flights of stairs.
Cape Huay is a popular day walk, reached from Fortescue Bay. We had completed the day walk back in 2011 when it had a high difficulty rating. Signs then advised that children under 14 should not attempt the walk due to the challenging conditions, back then it was a very rough track underfoot. Recent track works had converted the goat track we had previously experienced into an endless series of stairs constructed by skilled stonemasons.
Lookouts along the way were well patronised by walkers looking for a reason to stop and catch their breath. The clear day made the views all the better after the white out we experienced for much of yesterday.
Our pace slowed on the return to the track junction where we had left our backpacks, as the toll of the 1,000 stairs started to take effect. Adding the extra kilograms of our backpacks for the final few kilometres into Foretescue Bay didn’t help.
The arc of the white, sandy beach that makes Fortescue Bay a popular destination with campers came into view. We continued the descent to sea level and followed the gravel track around to a picnic area where our fellow walkers had gathered. Impressive platters of local foods were being prepared beside a number of bottles of local sparkling wines.
We removed our walking boots and socks and ventured down the beach to soak our tired feet in the chilly waters of the bay. The bubbles were shared around, the food consumed and speeches made by the guides and some of the walkers. Personalised cards were handed to everyone that included a group photo taken yesterday – a nice touch to conclude the walk.
It was a quiet trip back to Hobart, with the effects of a few glasses of champagne (on top of a demanding day walking) taking over. We farewelled our fellow walkers and guides in the city and headed back to our hotel for a well-earned shower before changing and walking to ‘Franklin’ – a local restaurant – for dinner.
The ‘chef’s choice’ option was a great way to experience a number of interesting dishes from the menu, while sitting at the bar gave us an insightful perspective into the workings of the kitchen. It’s definitely a place to remember for future visits.
The Three Capes Walk was an experience we will talk about for ages. The days of walking beside stunning coastal scenery were book-ended by architecturally designed eco-lodges that provided exceptional comfort and great food and wines. The weather conditions experienced while walking moved through drenching rains to gale force winds and onto sunny conditions that defied the sunscreen we applied.
We leave Tasmania with many happy memories spent celebrating our 40th wedding anniversary.
