We have moved camp today and are now set up a suitable distance back from the bank of the North Kennedy River, deep in Lakefield National Park. This is crocodile country, with more than enough signs warning people to be “croc wise” – there is no point in taking unnecessary risks.
Our day commenced like all others with a 6.30am start. The kettle was soon boiling and the first cup of tea was on the table as Wendy and Linda stirred. We were packed and on our way at around 8.15am, driving the short distance east towards Elim (where we visited yesterday) before taking Battlecamp Rd towards Lakefield National Park, to the west.
We weren’t long into the journey before we crossed a causeway at the top of the Isabella Falls where we stopped for a look and snapped a few photos. A small tour group led by an indigenous guide followed behind, he explained to his group that the water level at the falls was as low as it ever gets. Our impression has been that it is drier than when we first passed through in 2011, but we were earlier in the dry season then and maybe this is normal for August.
The sealed road continued for a few more kilometres beyond Isabella Falls before turning to a formed gravel road than was cause for us to stop and lower our tyre pressures all round (both Prado and Tvan) to smooth out the bumps and corrugations – making it just that little bit more comfortable for vehicle, camper trailer and occupants. This stop coincided with an opportunity to gather firewood, as you are not allowed to do so once inside the National Park. The well-travelled chainsaw made quick work of what Linda estimated to be about $60 worth of firewood – more than enough for our stay in Lakefield.
Recent roadworks made the journey through the southern end of the National Park easy going, although dusty. We crossed the Normanby and Laura rivers (both dry crossings) before turning off Battlecamp Road and into Old Laura Station which is now abandoned. The station was originally established by an Irishman in 1878 to supply meat to the prospectors seeking their fortune in the Palmer River goldfields. The station was on the route between Cooktown and the goldfields and ideally located for such a venture.
Our journey continued north, deeper into Lakefield National Park, with at stop at Catfish Waterhole – an area of permanent water, even in the the dry season. The water lilies were in full bloom, with many water birds seeking out something to eat amongst the reeds. What might be under the water was another matter that we could only speculate on. Another stop at White Lily Lagoon further along the road presented us with a similar scene.
The final stop for the day, before arriving at our destination, was at the Lakefield Ranger Station – to see if we could get confirmation that it is OK to travel up to Coen via the Port Stewart Road. Our maps show a section of the track being a “private road” but reports we have read suggest it is a permissible through road. With nobody about to confirm or deny the situation with the road / track we will continue on to Coen via the usual route of Musgrave Station and the PDR (Peninsula Development Road).
We drove over the near-dry crossing of the North Kennedy River (Hann Crossing – named after explorer William Hann) with only a small stream to negotiate. Not far from the crossing an access track to campgrounds 8 through 17 veers to the right, passing some elevated composting toilets. A kilometre away is our campsite – number 13, on the edge of an elevated bank looking east across the river to the other bank about 30 metres away. This would be barramundi territory if the season was right.
Today we have sighted a large goanna foraging beside the road, as well as a pair of brolgas standing in a clearing about 15 metres to our right as we drove by. A dingo was spotted trotting along the dusty track we were following, turning into the bushes when we were about 20 metres away. We are now waiting patiently for a possible croc sighting, but so far have seen only the splash of a fish chasing afternoon insects. The temperature is still hovering around the day’s maximum of 30C. We are sitting in the shade of the Tvan awning pretending to read, while actually watching the river flow by and the afternoon throw patterns of reflected sunlight on the trees and riverbank opposite.