We are slowly getting used to the Northern Territory time zone after turning our clocks back 1.5 hours when we drove into Katherine a few days ago. Now, instead of waking at 5.30am as we were in Western Australia, we are waking just before 7.00am Northern Territory time.
After a special treat – a cooked breakfast – we set off to explore some of the eastern tracks and sights within Lorella Springs Station. With Wendy in charge of gate opening, we headed out through the first of many gates then turned east to follow the course of Rosie Creek. After a short creek crossing we were bouncing along a dusty track that hugged the banks of the creek for some time. Long stretches of deep bull dust kept us on our toes. It is a lot like driving through mud, just minus the water. The steering becomes vague and you need a lot more revs to maintain forward motion. You also leave a near-nuclear cloud of dust behind as you plough through it!
Our first stop was Eagles’ Nest Billabong, a long stretch of the creek that widened into a large expanse of water with plenty going on under the water – all sorts of fish swimming in among the lilies. This was a no-go zone in terms of swimming; probably just freshies, but you can’t be too careful around here. There was a small tinnie with paddles available to explore the billabong, but we decided to push on further eastwards.
Our next stop was Flying Fox Swamp, so named because it is home to flying foxes for a few months of every year. It is a bird watcher’s paradise, and is also known to be visited by wild pigs from time to time. The 4WD track stopped about 30 metres from the edge of the swamp, where two creeks joined to form another large billabong lined with flowering paperbark trees. We approached the water’s edge cautiously, not knowing what might be awaiting our arrival. Crocs, wild pigs, even cranky cattle might be less than pleased to see us. The scene was still and, apart from bird calls, very quiet. We disturbed nothing and found we had the place to ourselves. A canoe was tethered close to where we walked down to the water but again, we chose to push on because we had other places on our itinerary. We took the opportunity to collect some more firewood to take with us when we head off tomorrow. If things go to plan, we will revisit a bush campsite on the western approach to the Calvert River where an evening fire could be a bonus.
Not only is Lorella Springs enormous, but the tracks are definitely 4WD-only standards. As a result, to get around you have to assume an average top speed of around 20 kms per hour. Any faster and the risk of damage to your tyres and vehicle becomes too great. As a result, it takes time to get anywhere within the property. You can drive to the Gulf, which is about 80kms from the homestead and campgrounds, but it is probably too far for a day trip and would require an overnight stop over to break the journey. Apparently the fishing is brilliant and that is what attracts the diehard fishing fraternity to head that way.
Our next stop was Nudie Hot Springs where clothing is optional. As we approached, we conjured up visions of mature-aged bottoms and jiggly bits as people frolicked in the springs. Fortunately, when we arrived, we were the only people there and we were spared the reality of having to face the preconceived visions in our heads. The springs were situated very close to the end of the 4WD track, with a long deep pool of bath-temperature water. We followed the creek that fed the pool upstream about 100 metres to its source, where it bubbled out from rocks at the base of a large rocky escarpment. The water at this point would have been way too hot to swim in. Fortunately it made its way to the deep pool via a narrow stream through rocks, allowing it to cool a little. We passed on the chance to swim at Nudie Hot Springs as they appeared nutrient-rich with an interesting green slime / algae enjoying the conditions.
We backtracked to our campsite using a combination of the GPS and the mud map provided, taking no wrong turns and avoiding damage to the Prado; although it has had a serious workout while we have been here. We had been bouncing along, exploring the property, for over 4 hours and had only scratched the surface. Lunch and a swim in the bearably warm spring-fed pools near our campsite were in order before we kicked back for the rest of the afternoon, doing the normal chores we do in preparation for spending the next few nights in the bush. A paella is planned for dinner tonight as our supplies of fresh food are dwindling. Next stock up will be Mt Isa in 5 days.
